Hiking the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim

As we move into the New Year I, like most, find myself reflecting on 2022 – specifically my trek across the Grand Canyon. It’s almost like a dream now. I can’t imagine I ever had the courage, strength, and stamina to do it. 

I’ve had a lot of people ask about the hike, interested in exploring the opportunity for themselves. The most important thing I tell them is to be honest about their health and fitness before committing to the challenge. There is a sign at the trail head that says, “Caution! Down in optional. Up in mandatory.” And that’s no joke. Park rangers tell us there are only three reasons they’ll send a helicopter in for you:

• You’ve been bitten by a rattlesnake
• You’re in active cardiac arrest
• You’re unconscious

Otherwise, you’re on your own. And with 27 miles to cover in 100-degree heat with a 5,000-foot elevation change each way, even the most well-trained athletes will begin to doubt their ability to make it out. Here are the top three things I wish I would have known before, during, and after the hike.

BEFORE THE HIKE

1. invest in good hiking gear – I bought a pair of Altra trail running shoes and an Osprey hiking backpack with a three-liter water reservoir. I also highly recommend wool socks (to prevent blisters) and wool underwear (to prevent odor). Hiking poles are considered another “must-have” by many hikers. I really didn’t use mine until the final three-mile stretch. It can be tempting to spend a small fortune on poles, but don’t. I ordered several pair from Amazon and ended up settling on these for just $20. My hiking partners paid five and six times that price for the fancier brands, and they broke early in the hike.
2. Commit to a training schedule for months ahead of the actual hike – especially when you live in a fairly flat state like Indiana. It’s hard to mimic the elevation changes that you’ll experience in the Canyon. I walked inclines on a tread mill and did hundreds upon hundreds of step-ups and walking lunges. I had no idea at the time what a lifesaver the last two exercises would become. Park rangers have carved steps into the canyon walls to prevent erosion and soften the effects of the incline. So, while you may be tempted to walk dozens of miles to train for the distance, you’ll be doing yourself a grave disservice if you don’t take the time to climb flights of stairs – both up and down to strengthen your knees, calves, and hamstrings.   
3. Pack light. Remember the canyon is like an upside-down mountain. The most strenuous part of the hike is on the way out and your pack will not get much lighter throughout the day. That’s because you must pack out your trash and refill your backpack’s bladder every chance you get. So just bring the basics (snacks, a first aid kit with mole skin, a trail guide, headlamps, sunscreen, a hat, and cell phone). As a general rule of thumb, experts recommend your pack weigh no more than 15-20% of your body weight.

DURING THE HIKE

1. Eat like a human being. One of the biggest mistakes endurance athletes make is to rely on energy bars, gels, and chews to fuel their body. Hiking actually suppresses your appetite and the excessive heat in the Canyon’s bed will dehydrate you before you even know it. So don’t wait until you’re hungry or thirsty to eat and drink. In fact, experts recommend you eat double your normal intake of carbohydrates and salty foods to replace what you sweat out. Calories help regulate your body’s temperature, so give your body what it needs. That means chips, sandwiches, and fruit. Even candy and soda! Oh, and splurge on that six-dollar glass of lemonade down at Phantom Ranch. It will hit the spot! Still think it sounds counterintuitive to eat processed foods on a cross-canyon hike? I’d be willing to bet the endurance athletes we passed on our way out of the canyon wish they had made smarter food choices. We ran into Ironman athletes and people who climb 14’ers preparing to spend the night on the trail (with the scorpions) because their bodies were so depleted.
2. Dress in layers. When we started our hike on the North Rim at 4:30 a.m. it was 45 degrees. Much of our hike down the Canyon was shaded and cool, but by the time we hit the Canyon floor, the temperature had risen to 110-degrees. Once the sun sets, you’re right back to 45 degrees. Also, you may want to pack a change of shorts and socks to prevent chafing and blisters should you decide to cool off in the streams along the trail.
3. Enjoy the scenery. Don’t worry about setting a record-breaking time. You may only get the chance to take this hike once in your lifetime. Soak it in! While the Canyon is remarkable at sunrise and sunset, my favorite views were at night. As you descend into the Canyon in the wee morning hours, stop to take in the seamless stream of headlamps stretching down into the Canyon. And on your way out, take time to marvel at the Milky Way. The Grand Canyon is an international Dark Sky Park given that it is in such a remote and largely unpopulated area. The night skies are incredible.

AFTER THE HIKE

1. Take time to celebrate! By the time we completed the hike – 17 hours later – I was over it! My body hurt. My spirit was broken. And I was questioning why I had ever wanted to do this in the first place. Those last three miles up Bright Angel Trail to the South Rim at 15 percent inclines were brutal. My only saving grace was the fact that it was dark, and I couldn’t see what lay ahead. Plus, I had a kick-ass friend who refused to let me give up. The range of emotions you’ll encounter is staggering. Know that you’ll experience some of your highest highs and lowest lows and that’s OK. That rush of adrenaline you feel as you enter the trail will be replaced by frustration, fatigue, and in some cases defeat but that’s all part of the journey. Allow yourself to feel all the feelings and set reasonable expectations for the hike out. It will take you twice as long to hike out as it did to hike down – perhaps longer. Know that and don’t get discouraged.
2. Take time to eat once you're out of the Canyon. Remember, your last substantial meal will have been the night before. Plan to grab something to eat before you shower up and head to bed. Or at the very least plan to eat a hearty breakfast the next morning. I don’t think I’ve had a better meal than the one I had the following morning. I was starving!
3. Give yourself a day or two before you head home. The morning after our hike, we could barely walk. We were so stiff and sore it took all we had just to shuffle to the car, let alone get ourselves on a flight home. I felt significantly better by the second day and back to myself the third day after the hike.

So, there you have it. Will I do it again? Nope! While I loved the challenge, I’ve been to the Grand Canyon three times. I’ll be looking for new challenges in other national parks. That said, the friend I hiked with has already made plans to go back and do it again. If you’re ever interested in learning more, please feel free to reach out. I’m more than happy to bore you with more details.
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Oh, and one last piece of advice … if it hasn’t rained lately, avoid the puddles on the trail. There is no filter on the market that can turn donkey piss into potable water. Plus, the smell on your shoes will be with you for several long, blazing hours.